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Ombha |
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Guru Rinpoche has visited Bhutan in the 8th
century to subdue the demons and to spread the Buddha Dharma. Bhutanese believe that there
is not even a horse’s hoof size of land area in Bhutan where Guru Rimpochey did not visit to
bless. Three sacred places widely considered sacred and blessed by Guru are Ombha, Aaja and
Hungrel. These places became sacred and important religious sites as the three sacred
letters; “Om Aa Hung” were found imprinted onto rock surface there. “Om” refers to wisdom
body, “Aa” for wisdom speech and “Hung” for wisdom mind.
The letter “Om” is
located in Teotso Geog under Tashiyangtse Dzongkhag locally called “Ombha Ney” which means
the sacred place of hidden “Om”. Since the Tertoen Pema Lingpa’s visit in the early 15th
century, people from far and near visit the place annually on pilgrimage.
The
“Aa”is located in “Aaja” in Mongar Dzongkhag. “Aaja” means hundred numbers of letters. “Aa”
which is visible on a rock surface in Aaja Nye.
The letter “ Hung” could be viewed
at Hungrel in Paro, which is located below Rinpung Dzong.
Buddhist believes that
visiting such sacred places will purify our minds and rinse away the sins committed by our
physical actions. Therefore, it is obligatory for Buddhist to visit the places as and when
we are able to walk and travel.
How to reach Ombha?
There is
a motor able road till Tsenkharla Middle Secondary School, which is 33 KM away from
Tashiyangtse and 36 KM from Tashigang. We have to walk from Tsenkharla towards Sep and
Jangphu village, which is about four hours without much climbing. After passing by some
villages and we will finally arrive at Ombha village. From there it is just a 15 minutes
walk to the sacred place. The letter “Om” is visible on the rock surface if you watch
carefully from a distance about 7 yards. If you draw closer you cannot see. One does not
know the reason why! That’s miracle! One has to think and meditate for sometime. It takes a
whole day to visit all the sites here. A local contractor has constructed a small shrine
where people can offer incense and butter lamps and a guesthouse for those who wish to spend
the night at the sacred place.
Ombha was first revealed as a sacred Nye by some
descendents of Guru Choewang. Terton Pemalingpa also blessed the Nye and later on his grand
daughter Ani Choeten Zangmo spent sometimes here in meditation. Guru Rimpochey blessed the
place while he was in pursuit of Yonglha alias Geygnen Choephel guardian deity of Gomphu
Cora. About 3hours walk down from here is another famous Nye called Gongza, which is
actually Gong Ja where Guru Rimpochey spent duration of having tea.
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Rigsum Goenpa |
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Lama Tshering Gyamtsho from Punakha Dratshang
was a close disciple of the 9th Je Khenpo Shacha Rinchhen. He was destined to explore the
sacred places of Guru Rinpoche. While in meditation at the Rinchengang (where present
Tashiyangtse Dzong is located) a monk appeared in his dream and told him “your destiny lies
further up the valley of Bumdelling.”The search led him to the present Rigsum Goenpa . There
he found a cave with the clear body prints of Rigsum Goenp ( Jamyang, Chana Dorji and
Chenrayzig), which is located above the Rigsum Gonpa onto a cliff. Onto the same cliff there
is also the Nyechen Apa and close by is the Nyechen Ama representing male and female signs.
The monk who led him to the place was the powerful local deity Genyen Phanbu who was the
guardian of this sacred place. The Lama befriended the local deity through his spiritual
powers and built a small lhakhang for his meditation.
After the death of Lama
Tshering Gyamtsho, his nephew and spiritual heir Lama Jangchhub Gyeltshen took over the
entire responsibility of the place. He renovated and extended the present-day lower lhakhang
with the unique mural paintings of the life history of Lord Buddha (Paksam Thrishing), which
is a rare artifact not seen anywhere. The lhakhang was named as Rigsum Goenpa lhakhang.
Lama Jangchhub Gyeltshen was instrumental in spreading Buddhism in the region who attained
nirvana in his lifetime. He has already found his spiritual heir in the person of Lama
Ngawang Loday.
While Lama Ngawang Loday was reinforcing religious activities
introduced by his uncle, His Holiness Yonten Thaye, the 13th Je Khenpo(1771-1775), who was
on the way to Tsari Rongkor(Mountain Pilgrimage in Arunachal Pradesh, India) visited the
region and ordained him as the 3rd Abbot of Rigsum Goenpa Lhakhang. He was a famous lama
who left behind a great spiritual legacy. He constructed the bigger lhakhang and installed
valuable Ku Sung Thukten( sacred artifacts representing the body, mind and speech of the
Buddha) including the statue of Jowo Shacha Muni, hundred volumes of Kanjur and the eight
enlightening stupas of Lord Budha (Desheg Chhorten Gyed) for the well being of the people of
Bhutan. The statue of Jowo and chortens were brought all the way from Punakha Dzong. It
was handiwork of the famous craftsman and iconographer Pentsa Dev from Nepal during the
reign of fourth Gyalsay Tenzin Rabgay. So sacred is the statue that, the sixth abbot of the
lhakhang, Lama Shacha Gyalpo received its speech. Hence,the Jowa Sung Joem (the Jowo that
spoke).
Major reconstruction works at main Rigsum Goenpa Lhakhang are in the final
stages. The funds are from the Royal Government and the people of Tashiyangtse Dzongkhag
contributed the labour force. The works are expected to be completed by the end of 2004. The
old lhakhang where the rare and special artifact painting of Pasam Thrishing is located
would also be renovated soon. However, as these paintings are done directly onto the mud
wall the restoration would require special expertise while restoring this unique painting to
retain its original splendour.
The newly gilded Sertog(Golden Cupola) was donated
by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, during visit of His Excellency Lyonpo Jigmi Y Thinley
in Decembers 2001, (installed it in December, 2003). The main Nye of the Rigsum Goenpa
exists at Nye Pemaling and Pelri Tse. The Pemaling would be visited traveling through
Tarphel, Tobrang, Shingphel towards Tibetan border which takes about 3 days from
Bumdeling.
Pelri Tse would be reached from Rigsum Goenpa in 2 days walk over the
hill above Rigsum Goenpa. Both the Nyes are of Guru Rinpoche where he was in pursuit of
Yonglha who is the local deity of Gom Kora (also known as Gyenen Chophel).
Pelri
Tse is the remnants of Pemaling Nye but supposed to be strikingly beautiful with 13 lakes
all of which are Latsos of the guardian deities. Other Nye at Pelri Tse are Zangtho Pelri,
Nangsey Tshering Phodrang and Throegi Zingbo which is an island where one could walk through
a path to the middle of the lake and put up prayer flags. The ideal time to visit this place
would be in the 4th or 7th Lunar month.
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Chorten Cora, Trashi Yangtse |
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Lama Ngawang Loday wished to construct a replica of the Boudhanath stupa of Nepal in Kholongchhu valley in memory of his late uncle Lama Jangchhub Gyeltshen and to subdue a demon dwelling at the site where the Choeten stands today. Guru Rinpoche and his brothers had constructed the Boudhanath stupa popularly known as Jarung Khashor in their previous lives.
Lama Ngawang Loday and his friend Lama Zangpo from Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh set on a journey to Boudnath. Both returned home with a model of the Choeten, which was quickly made out of radish. They were determined to construct similar Choeten in Tashiyangtse and Tawang. Consequently, Lama Zangpo constructed at Pangchanang valley in Tawang, which is known as Gorzam Choeten today. Lama Ngawang Loday constructed another in Tashiyangtse valley and was called Duerong Choeten. Later on it came to be popularly known as Choeten Kora. It is said that they modeled the stupa on a raddish and by the time they arrived home, the radish-model had shrunk distorting the shape. As a result, the Choeten particularly the one at Tashiyangtse underwent some changes in its design especially at the level of galleries.
The construction of Choeten Kora took 12 long years. It was supported by disciples of Lama Ngawang Loday and devotees from Tashiyangtse, Tashigang and Kurtoe valley, and also by people from the neighbouring tribal communities of Tawang. His Holiness Je Yonten Thaye made his second visit to the valley, consecrated the Choeten by offering Mandala of Dechhog Paochigpa, and blessed the people in the valley. After the construction, the demon that harmed the people was subdued and banished. Thereafter, it is said that the people in the valley continued to live in peace and harmony.
The pinnacle of the Choeten Kora was originally carved of huge stone. Later, Lama Shacha Gyelpo, who was originally from Sewla Goenpa, Punakha, known as the most learned and wealthy of Rigsum Lam replaced it with a gilded Cupola. It is said that the people who were involved in the work could not think of a way to bring down the stone pinnacle. So, Lama Shacha Gyelpo performed prayers during the day and it is believed that the stone miraculously descended by itself at night. It is still found beside the Choeten. Pilgrims and devotees who circumambulate the Choeten also go round the stone pinnacle.
Another legend says that while the construction of Choeten reached its dome, a eight year old girl believed to be a Dakini from Tawang came and volunteered to buried alive inside the dome. On this account, the 15th day of the first lunar month the festival of Cora is called Dakpe Kora (circumambulation of the Choeten by the Dakpas) and Cora festivity on the 30th day is known as the Drukpe Kora (circumbulation by the Bhutanese). The festivals are held every year and hundreds of devotees from far and near congregate at the Choeten. They believe that making prostrations and praying with pure mind at the festival would enable them to realize their aspirations in this life.
The Sertog or the golden cupola was re-gilded in 1999 by the Dzongkhag Tshechu Tshogpa. The pedestal and wooden framework of prayer wheels, stone-slab roofing and pavements around the Choeten was restored in 2000-2001.
5.4. Gomphu Kora
Gomphu Kora Lhakhang is located about 12 kilometers from Chazam in Tashigang towards Tashiyangtse. The Gomphu Kora is a sacred site where, around 850 AD, Guru Rinpoche subdued an evil spirit he chased all the way from Lhasa Samye,Tibet. Guru Rinpoche meditated for three months in the cave after he had suppressed the demon but the demon once again came out of the cave in the form of a serpent. Guru got up to subdue the serpent and the imprint of the Guru’s hat and body are left on the rock which could be seen today also the imprint of snake as well. Kapaliphu cave is located about 200 meters above the lhakhang is where Guru spent three months in mediation.
It is believed that Gyenen Chophel alias Yonglha was a classmate of Guru Rinpoche at Nalanda University. However, Yonglha was misled and he followed the wrong path and thus went against the Buddha Dharma. Yonglha has also attained very high level of spiritual powers so much so that he was equally competent in the confrontation where it took Guru this long to suppress him. Yonglha figures quite a high level among the Drukpa Kaju guardian deities. When King Trisong Detsen was on his deathbed, he requested Guru Rinpoche to grant him longevity. The Guru sent his disciple, Nanam Dorji Dudjum, to fetch a Tshebum- a vase containing the water of immortality, from Draphug Maratika in Nepal. When Nanam Dorji Dudjom reached Gomphu Kora, Trisong Detsen passed away and the Tshebum was hidden by Guru Rinpoche inside the large rock behind the Lhakhang. Today, during the auspicious days of the month, water trickles out from a small crack at the top of the rock. It is considered auspicious if one reaches the spot while the water is trickling, as it is believed to be the holy water coming out of the hidden Tshebum.
The Kora festival at Gomphu Kora was initiated 400 years ago after the Lhakhang was built by Ngagi Wangchuck and consecrated by Terton Pema Lingpa. Unlike other festivities in the country the Gomphu Kora is popular for its culture of nightlife, which has evolved around the festival. Mask dances were introduced in the 1990’s.
The Gomphu Kora Tshechu is one of the biggest festivals in eastern Bhutan providing a welcome break for locals to trade, socialise, and celebrate before the start of the farming season. The festival draws people from remote villages, school children, village youths, businessmen, civil servants, and the Dakpas of Tawang. Traditionally, the festival was an occasion for the people of eastern Bhutan, to choose their spouse and also to rejuvenate the degrading stock. As the local inhabitants have the system of practicing a custom whereby marrying ones cousin is considered good through a tradition of “Sergi Mathang” (golden spouse). These is unsound practice from scientific point and probably people already new its negative impact, so such a festival was used to renew the breed by encouraging casual relations during such festivals. However, today with the onslaught of “HIV/ AIDS” and the “STD”, it is proving to be problematic for the society.
There are also many Nyes around the Gomphu Kora. Most of which are along the river bed which extends from Tsergom in Jamkhar Geog and goes right upto Ombha, Gongza under Toetsho Geog. Further the Guru Rimpochey has also visited many other places where the Nyeslike Rigsum Goenpa, Pemaling, Pelri Tse, Dechenphodrang, Kharchen Dra(Bumdeling) are also blessed.
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